Fraai Uitzicht 1798

'Fraai Uitzicht' means 'beautiful view' in Dutch - no idle promise as it turns out. The 17th-century wine and guest farm is four kilometres up a gravel road in a cul-de-sac valley ringed by vertiginous mountains. People come from far and wide for the well-known restaurant and the seven-course dégustation menu is basically irresistible. Matched with local wine, it features trout salad, springbok carpaccio, beef fillet with brandy sauce and decadent Dream of Africa chocolate cake. Shall we just say I left with more than one spare tyre in the car. You could also be entertained by a Xhosa choir who give performances every other Wednesday night. Where to sleep is not an easy decision as you are spoilt for choice. A few cottages take it easy in the garden, each comfortable and pretty with impressionistic oils and views of the mountain, while others offer you masses of character with metre-thick walls and timber interiors; my favourite was the loft bedroom in the eaves. Or opt for one of the garden suites with their own entrances and balconies. Make sure you take a peek at the wine cellar - guests have first option on the (uniquely) hand-made merlot, I can't count the number of recommendations we had pointing us to Axel and Mario's door.